This being our first trip to Central America, I think we’d expected an Indiana Jones-type airplane ride shared with chickens and sweaty natives. We were happily disappointed, as our flights from Washington Dulles, via Ft. Lauderdale, were as uneventful as flying to Cleveland.

Arriving in San Jose, Costa Rica, we found the airport well air-conditioned and efficiently staffed. With the help of an accommodating local, we quickly located our “rent-a-wreck” car company rep who handed us the keys to our tiny Geo Tracker. With more than 150,000 miles under its belt, we understood why the rental fee had been almost unbelievable! No matter — guide book and map in hand we set off to our first destination, Arenal Observatory Lodge.

After 3 hours we left the not-so-great main roadway and headed up the mountain to Arenal Observatory Lodge. It took almost an hour to cover the last 6 miles of our trip. We barely held onto our kidneys as we rock and rolled over a dirt, deeply grooved washboard road, reminiscent of Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride…it made you want to scream in terror and yell “yee-hah” at the same time.

One loosely constructed bridge at a switchback gave us pause, but was crossed successfully, no “fiord-ing” necessary. Reaching the lodge, with its beautiful flowering “campus” (home to more than 300 species of birds), and its splendid view of the lake, jungle and volcano, made it all worth wild.

Originally a Smithsonian study lodge, and still retaining some research facilities and equipment, the lodge had been converted to tourist accommodations and a restaurant. Every room faces Volcan Arenal (just 1.7 miles away) with an unimpeded view through a huge glass outer wall.

Outside our room, pendulous Oropendola nests hung everywhere from the tall tropical trees

The lodge’s beautiful “campus” is well worth a leisurely walk-about or bike ride on the more than 1.2 mile of paved trails. Window seats in the restaurant and on the attached treehouse-like deck are the perfect place to see an amazing array of birds, attracted by fruit smorgasbords set out by the staff. And drinks on that same deck in the evening, watching the sun go down over the trees, is a perfect way to end the day.

Costa Rica’s most active volcano, Arenal looms over the area like an ancient king on his throne. During the day eruptions occur so frequently there’s always a massive trail of smoke across the sky, and ribbons of dust trailing belched rocks as they cascade down the sides. On clear nights the views are spectacular.

Our 1st night I was awaken by what I thought was thunder. However, looking from the bed directly out our window I saw lava rocks spewing skyward, then falling to decorate the top third of the volcano like raspberry sauce drizzled heavily over a sundae. Speechless, I could only prod my husband’s arm until he awoke to the show. It gave us pause as to whether it was actually safe to be so close, but the lushness of our surroundings assured us it has been many years since the last major eruption.

Due to the volcano’s volatile activity and the capricious weather, the top of the cone is often shrouded in clouds. It is highly possible you could spend several days in the area and never catch a glimpse of the volcano. However, we were lucky and had clear views our entire three day visit.

Rising more than 5,200 feet, this perfectly conical volcano is located in the northern region of Costa Rica in Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal, between Lake Arenal to the east and the town of La Fortuna to the west. It was actually believed dormant for several hundred years until a massive explosion in 1968, killing 84 people, and devastating the surrounding villages.

Between then and 2010 the volcano has been very much awake and is still considered one of the most active volcanoes in the world.

The Parque Nacional has several trails leading to great photo-capturing vistas, including those in the black lava fields on its backside. A fairly easy walk, leading to a more strenuous climb, accompanied by constant rumblings this trip is worth the effort, especially with an informative guide.

Ours had a very personal connection with the volcano as his best friend had been killed in its more recent eruption. Listening to our guide, we sat on the rubble and contemplated the area’s destruction and rebuild. It was hard to reconcile the views of the field of black lava rock we were in, the active cone above, and the lush countryside surrounding it all with each other.

Maybe it would be best to head back to the lodge’s deck, and think about it more while watching the sun sink and sipping on chilled glasses of Chilean wine!

Would we return to Arenal and the lodge? Would we recommend it? Absolutely!

Room rates: $79 – $163, villas from $510 – $650.

Basic rooms are large, clean, each with great views of the volcano, some with balconies — although the beds in those with balconies do not face the windows.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the restaurant, and it’s worth it to eat here rather than make the drive down the mountain. The “Tiko” steak is excellent and goes well with the Chilean wine available at a decent price.

Written by VIP Members Thomas Lera and Sandra Fitzgerald.

An Excursion to Costa Rica’s Volcano Arenal.

Article/Property ID Number 5333

Andrew Makarik

to@welovecostarica.com

Andrew Makarik is the main editor of WeLoveCostaRica, a fan of this sunny country. He is also a loving husband and a has a lovely daughter. By being a devoted family man and the biggest Costa Rica fan, he wants to make more people feel at home there. WeLoveCostaRica unites people and helps them find new home or a new travel destination. This website is a friendly community where everyone can find not only information, but also new friends and travel pals. Andrew is also passionate about IT and programming, so he himself maintains a friendly atmosphere in this cozy environment of WeLoveCostaRica.com.