Costa Rica Cars Driving In, Out and About
Costa Rica is fascinating and beautiful, there are tropical rain forests, active volcanoes, and white sand beaches that stretch as far as the imagination.
The country is by far the most developed of all Central American countries. There are supposedly over 100,000 North-Americans living in Costa Rica and the number is growing daily.
Both Caribbean and Pacific coasts offer beautiful beaches, national parks and festive environments. There have been recent increases in
taxes and therefore it is more expensive to travel in Costa Rica than the other Central American countries. But compared to North American standards, food and accommodations are still a bargain.
Tourism is booming in Costa Rica, just walk into any bookstore and you will find
an assortment of travel guides containing information on retiring, moving, investing,
living, rafting, bungee jumping or whatever you want to do in the country.
People are willing to pay to have fun and this has been well-displayed by the
expanding list of activities that tourists may enjoy while visiting Costa Rica.
Unfortunately, you won’t find the peace and solitude that was so attractive years
ago when the spines of tourism had not yet scratched the skin of Costa Rica. Nevertheless,
it’s still a wonderful country to visit and it is my favorite in all of Central
America.
Surfing and Water Sports
Surfers, welcome to paradise! Costa Rica offers beach breaks, reef breaks and
off shore islands with a plethora of waves. Eight hours from coast to coast –
two separate oceans within one day’s drive – substantially increases your odds of locating surf.
Driving In Costa Rica
Watch your speed in Costa Rica, the police like to catch foreigners in radar
traps. Also, there is a seat-belt law – so wear it! The roads are horrible but
the signs are good. From the border you can make San Jose in 5 hours. From San
Jose you can visit either coast in a couple of hours.
Penas Blancas is the only entry point for Costa Rica. There are no vehicle entry points on the Caribbean side coming from Nicaragua.
Therefore you must travel past Managua and south toward the Pacific coast into
Costa Rica.
Your first stop is fumigation, $3 US. Pay the fee and then drive your car through the fumigation station. If
you are adamantly against having your car fumigated, you can offer the inspector
some extra dinero and they will most likely give you passage without fumigation.
Immigration and Customs
The Costa Rican and Nicaraguan immigration offices are 4km apart. On the Costa
Rican side the immigration office is next to the Restaurant La Frontera.
Your next stop is the Migration and Aduana, both in one building – what a concept!
Park your vehicle and go to Migration for your entry stamp, $2 US. Next take your
passport and title and give it to the official at the Aduana window.
You are required to purchase insurance for a minimum of one month, $17 US. The
official will give you three forms, computer generated: Certificado De Entrega
De Vehiculos, No Comerciales Importacion Temporal, Instituto Nacional De Seguros,
and Recibo De Dinero.
After you receive the forms you are free to go. There is an inspection station
at the exit about 1k down the road, but it is very informal.
Learned Lessons
You will encounter several checkpoints on the road leading away from the border.
The guards will ask for your passport and destination and then send you on your
way with a smile. These stations are more for illegal immigrants from Nicaragua
than for gringos. This is by far the most efficient and trustworthy crossing you
will encounter. If you have made it this far, congratulations!
CR Border/Tamarindo
Driving Time: 4 hours
Kilometers: 162
Miles: 100
Hwy: CA 1 – CA 151 – CA 21 – CA 152
As mentioned above, you will come across several checkpoints traveling away from
the Nicaraguan border. Show the officials the necessary paperwork and you should
have no problems.
From Penas Blancas follow the signs to Liberia. At Liberia you can fill your
gas tank and stomach before continuing to Tamarindo. In the center of town turn
right at the major intersection and follow the signs to Tamarindo. This same route
will take you to Coco Beach, Playa Junquillal, Samara, Nicoya or any other location
on the Nicoya Peninsula.
There are several exceptional National Parks in this region. If you see only one National Park while in Costa Rica, make
it Santa Rosa National Park. The park is located between Penas Blancas and Liberia
about 45 minutes from the border and 35k north of Liberia. The beach is unimaginably
beautiful, there is an abundance of wildlife in the park and there are camping
facilities and cabanas for rent. There is also a cooking facility that provides
meals for a small fee.
There are three alternative routes leaving Tamarindo for locations further south.
Depending on how far on to the Nicoya Peninsula you have traveled, you may either
(1) work your way back to Liberia and continue south from the city, (2) take the
short ferry at the northern Golfo de Nicoya, or (3) travel by ferry at the southern
end of the Nicoya Peninsula to Puntarenas.
Learned Lessons
If you’re on the way to the Nicoya Peninsula you may want to take the ferry.
This can sometimes take much longer than anticipated. The ferry operator will
wait until the ferry is full before leaving the port and there is frequently a
long line of cars waiting to cross – ordinarily more than can fit on the ferry,
so get there early.
Special Directions
The ferry that sails from the Nicoya Peninsula to Puntarenus departs from Playa
Naranjo. There are three to five daily departures and the travel takes between
1 to 2 hours. The cost is between $8 and $10 for you and your wheels. Check departure
times by calling Conatramar at 661-1069.
CR Border / San Jose
Driving Time: 5 hours
Kilometers: 289
Miles: 179
Hwy: CA 1
After finishing your entry requirements follow the signs on CA 1 to Liberia.
From Liberia continue south 128k to Esparza. At Esparza head for San Mateo. San
Mateo is the junction point for San Jose or the Pacific coast.
Follow the signs toward Alajuela and San Jose. This road leads you away from
San Mateo and up into the highlands, the road is well-marked, but the ascent is
steep. When you are close to San Jose you will pass the airport, about 15 minutes
from town. Plan your drive into San Jose on a weekday and not during the rush
hour, the traffic can be horrific. Like all Latin American capitals, driving in
San Jose is not for the weak or impatient. The roads are congested and confusing,
expect to pull over several times to ask for directions. Attendants at gas stations
are always helpful, nonetheless, be prepared to take your time finding the way.
Hotel and Eats
If you have been driving for some time and want a great place to lay your tired
bones, try Hotel Cacts. As you enter San Jose on Paseo Colon you will pass Pizza
Hut. Turn right at the next corner and travel 4 blocks to Hotel Cacts. The cost
is $25 – $50 per night, it includes a hot shower and a light breakfast. They have
24 hour security for your car, a travel agency on-site and storage for your luggage.
When you pass the Pizza Hut, turn left and drive 4 blocks.
Learned Lessons
Watch your personal items in the coastal towns and in San Jose. Never leave anything of value in your vehicle unattended. There are plenty of car parks in San Jose, but don’t trust them
and never leave your keys with them. Read Helpful Hints and Other Topics for
more information.
CR Border / Pacific Coast
From CR Border
Driving Time: 5 hours
Kilometers:289
Miles:179
Those traveling to the Pacific coast must turn right at the junction point of
San Mateo and head for Jaco. The three main travel destinations on this route
are Jaco, Quepos and Dominical. All three locations are worth a visit. You can
also drive to the Panamanian border via this route, but the roads are worse.
The road from Jaco to Dominical takes a toll on your vehicle and spine. Jaco
is your first coastal town within striking distance of San Jose. This is where
all the Ticos go for vacation and weekend holidays, thus be prepared for crowds.
Playa de Jaco is a great place to relax during the week, but on the weekends the
ambiance changes to a festival of loud discos and, at times, a drunken calamity.
This is a large coastal town with all the amenities of any resort location. Quepos
is a much quieter town then Jaco. It is located about 1+ hours south of Jaco and
it is the home of Manuel Antonio, a great National Park worth the $10 entry fee.
Another 1-2 hours south is Dominical, a small coastal town with a great atmosphere.
If you are a surfer you will definitely want to check out this place, even when
there is no swell it’s thumping.
If you are looking to get away from the tourists and into the outskirts of Costa
Rica keep heading south toward Golfito and the Panamanian border. From Dominical
it’s another 6 hour drive. Head for San Isidro, and then south toward Golfito,
190K. Again for those surfing enthusiasts there is a great break at Pavones. If
you’re in Dominical and a swell comes in, pack the camping gear and head for Pavones
and some long left-handers.
Traveling during the rainy season the road to the south of Dominical may not
be passable, ask the local Ticos for road conditions before you make the long
trek.
Learned Lessons
If your driving past Jaco make sure your spare tyre is in working order. These
are some of the worst roads you will encounter in Costa Rica. The roads are passable,
but they are muddy and filled with potholes during the rainy season.
Special Directions
After finishing your entry requirements follow the signs on CA 1 to Liberia.
From Liberia continue south 128k to Esparza. At Esparza head for San Mateo. San
Mateo is the junction point for San Jose or the Pacific coast.
Driving Around San Jose
One must be very patient driving in San Jose and around the city. There are radar traps on most roads
and in many instances the police will pull you over and ask to see your papers,
passport, and drivers license. In most cases, unless you were speeding, the police
will simply check your documents and let you go on your way.
The city center is arranged on a grid, avenidas run east-west and calles north-south.
Street numbers are rarely given in San Jose, instead, the nearest intersection
is given. Thus you can assume that the directions to any particular local are
not exact, but at least in the general vicinity.
The downtown area is dirty and congested, parking is difficult and vehicle break-ins
are common. Find a safe place to park your vehicle and pay to have it watched.
There are plenty of places to stay, though the better B&Bs tend to be booked
well in advance, thus if you have a particular place in mind it is wise to call
ahead and reserve a room.
San Jose/Caribbean
Driving Time: 4 hours
Kilometers: 134
Miles: 83Hwy: CA 1 – CA 2
This is a beautiful drive through mountains (you actually go through a mountain), banana and mango plantations and lush
tropical forests. The major problem is finding your way through San Jose and to
the Caribbean route. You want to follow any sign you see for Limon. Travel north,
up Avenida Central to the traffic circle in the center of town. At the traffic
circle follow the road around to the left. This road takes you to the junction
point where the road for Limon is located. Be prepared to ask for directions.
Learned Lessons
Once you are in Limon – get out of Limon! This is not why you came to the Caribbean. There is a traffic signal, the third
when you enter town, with a fruit stand on the corner. You want to turn right
at the corner and travel south toward Cahuita and Puerto Viejo. Cahuita National
Park is located at the northern end of Cahuita.
There is a trail that follows the cost for several kilometers and empties on
to a deserted palm lined beach. Along the trail you may encounter monkeys, sloths
and giant mosquitoes – don’t forget your repellent!
Cahuita is about one hour from Limon and Puerto Viejo is another 45 minutes south
of Cahuita. Puerto Viejo offers great surfing (Salsa Brava) and festive night
life at inexpensive prices. Those going to Puerto Viejo from Cahuita must travel
back to the main road and turn left at the junction. Be prepared for a bumpy ride!
Special Directions
Take precaution while traveling these roads. Watch your speed and make sure your
vehicle papers are in order. The police always set up checkpoints in this region.
You are close to Panama and you will most likely be solicited by drug dealers
in the coastal towns. Be cautious and don’t forget that you’re in a foreign country,
drug offenders are not treated nicely by authorities.
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San Jose/Panama Border
Driving Time: 8 hours
Kilometers: 355
Miles: 220
Hwy: CA 2
This is a long drive over the mountains into the lowlands of Costa Rica. Leaving
San Jose head for Cartago, CA 2. Once in Cartago, go through the town and the
road will veer right. There are no signs, so you may have to stop and ask. After
you leave the city you will ascend into the mountains again. This is a demanding drive with twists, turns and potholes.
Eventually you will reach San Isidro in 3 to 4 hours. From San Isidro you may
visit Dominical on the coast or continue south toward Golfito and the Panamanian
border. Leaving San Isidro, head for Palmar Norte and then continue on to Paso
Canoas or Golfito.
Paso Canoas is the main border crossing between Panama and Costa Rica. The border
is open from 6:00 a.m. – 11:00 a.m. and from 1:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m. The word on
the Panamanian visa for North Americans seems to change from day to day. Check
with the consulate in San Jose for current requirements.
Travelers note that the Interamerican Hwy changes from CA 1 to CA 2 past Cartago
to the border with Panama.
Learned Lessons
If you’re driving into Panama with the intention of traveling to South America
there is an obstacle called the Darien Gap. This mass of tropical jungle prevents
anyone from driving between Central and South American. There is a ferry boat
from Colon, Panama to Caragena, Colombia.
Crossing the Darien Gap
You don’t actually cross the Darien Gap, you go around it by boat. The crossing
is made on a small cruise ship that takes about 17 hours. The cost is $250 per
person and $225 for the vehicle. The ship travels three times a week and the price
includes a sleeping cabin, dinner and breakfast.
The ferry is operated by Crucero Express in El Real, Panama: telephone 63-3322
or fax 63-3326. You may locate the office by driving east from Panama City on
the Pan American Highway to El Real. At the offices in El Real you must sign the
paperwork and pay the fees. You will need your vehicle registration, title, proof
of insurance, driver’s license and passport. Seventeen hours later you will debark
in Turbio, Colombia.
When you enter Panama from Costa Rica make sure that your papers indicate that
you will be leaving Panama from Colon and not the border post in which you have
entered. Incorrect papers can cause grief. Insurance for your vehicle is available
near the border at $70 for 90 days.
Special Directions
If you visit the south and you are returning to northern Costa Rica you may drive
up the coast from Dominical or through the central route. From Dominical you may
continue north to Quepos and Jaco and then on to San Jose. Check with the locals
before you make the trip about the condition of the road.
Exiting Costa Rica
No special permit is required if you haven’t overstayed the time allocated in
your passport. If your time has expired, you will need an exit visa which you
can pay for at the border.
Costa Rica and Nicaragua: Penas Blancas is the main border post between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. The
border is open from 8am until 8pm daily. The Costa Rican and Nicaraguan border
stations are 4km apart.
Costa Rica and Panama: There are three main border crossings between Costa Rica and Panama. The most
frequented crossing is at Paso Canoas; open from 6am until 9pm. Officials may
require an onward ticket and proof of sufficient funds. The closest city of any
size is David, about one hour from the border. From David, Panama City is another
6-7 hours travel.
On the Caribbean side you may cross into Panama at Sixaola, open from 7am until 7pm.
The last crossing point is at Rio Sereno, east from San Vito, this is a remote and rarely used route
and the border officials are known to be sticklers on regulations and formalities.
Parque Nacional Volcan Arenal
At the center of a national park in the northwest of the country, the perfectly
conical, 1633m (5356ft) Volcan Arenal is everyone’s image of a typical volcano.
The volcano has been exceptionally active since 1968, when huge explosions triggered
lava flows that killed several dozen people. The degree of activity varies from
week to week; sometimes there is a spectacular display of flowing red-hot lava and incandescent rocks flying through the air; at other times, the volcano is
more placid and gently glows in the dark. Don’t even think about climbing Arenal.
The best views at night (when the weather is clear) are from the western or northern
side.
Because the park was only created in 1995 there are very few facilities – only
one lodge and camping is not permitted – so the best base from which to explore
the area is the small town of La Fortuna de San Carlos.
Parque Nacional Santa Rosa
This is the oldest and one of the best developed national parks in Costa Rica.
It covers most of the Peninsula Santa Elena, which juts out into the Pacific in
the far northwestern corner of the country. It protects the largest remaining
stand of tropical dry forest in Central America and important nesting sites for
endangered species of sea turtle. The park also has historical connections, and
includes the hacienda where an amateur Costa Rican army took on William Walker
in 1856.
Monteverde
This small community in northwestern Costa Rica was founded by Quakers in 1951
and is now a popular and interesting destination for both local and international
visitors. Its attractions include a cloud forest, walking trails, quetzals, a
cheese factory, a butterfly garden and a number of art galleries.
Caribbean Coast
The Caribbean has more cultural diversity than the Pacific coast. Half of this coastal area is protected by national parks and wildlife refuges, which has slowed development and the
building of access roads, making it an especially verdant place to get away from
it all. The main city is Puerto Limon, which has a tropical park teeming with
flowers and sloths. Parque Nacional Tortuguero is the most important Caribbean
breeding ground of the green sea turtle and has plenty of birds, monkeys and lizards.
The Creole beach paradise of Cahuita has a nearby national park with attractive
beaches, coral reef and coastal rain forest. Bribri culture can be experienced
in the surfing mecca of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. Handicrafts, reggae, home stays
and cultural tours make Puerto Viejo an especially interesting destination.
Peninsula de Nicoya
This area on the northwestern Pacific coast is difficult to traverse because
of the lack of paved roads; however, it’s well worth the effort because it contains
some of the country’s best and most remote beaches. There are also some small and rarely visited wildlife reserves and parks. Parque
Nacional Marino las Baulas de Guanacaste, just north of Tamarindo, includes Playa
Grande, an important nesting site for the baula (leatherback turtle) – the world’s
largest turtle, which can weigh over 500kg (1105lb). Playa del Coco is the most
accessible beach on the peninsula, in an attractive setting and with a small village,
which has some nightlife. Good surfing and windsurfing can be found at Playa Tamarindo.
Caving fans head for Parque Nacional Barra Honda, northeast of Nicoya, which
protects some of Costa Rica’s most interesting caves. Wildlife teems in the coastal Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional, midway between Samara and Paraiso.
The main attraction is the annual nesting of the olive ridley sea turtle, but you’ll also find iguanas, howler monkeys, coatimundis and flocks of numerous birds. One of the safest and prettiest beaches in the country is Playa Samara, and Montezuma, near the tip of the peninsula, is a lovely, laid-back paradise for tired, young gringos.
Surf Along The Way
Driving along the pacific coast of Mexico one will find never-ending stretches
of uninhabited beach full of epic surf. El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and
Panama all have popular, well-known breaks – it’s the unknown breaks that will
fill your excite meter on this road trip.
Costa Rica already has quite a reputation among surfers, who are drawn there from near and far by the quality and consistency of its
waves. Though the country gets plenty of the big waves that true surf fanatics
live for, there are also days and spots that are perfect for people who have little
experience with the sport, or who have been away from the ocean for a long time,
and would like to try it again. This means that whether you’re a veteran wave
ripper or a belly-boarding beginner, you can usually find the conditions you need
to have a great time.
With 755 miles of coastline on two oceans, Costa Rica has more breaks than you can shake a stick at. The country’s selection
of surf spots range from idyllic beach breaks to coral platforms where the water
leaps up and tubes like a miniature Pipeline. Having coastline on two oceans is
quite an advantage, since when one ocean is flat, there is usually something breaking
on the other side of the country. Often enough, there is good surf pumping on
both coasts.
And the country’s surf is complemented by its comfortable water temperatures
— you can leave that wet suit at home — beautiful scenery, and the convenience
of a variety of accommodations and restaurants near most breaks. Since it is five
times longer than the Caribbean coast, the Pacific has considerably more surfing
spots. Many of the country’s best breaks are found in the northwest province of
Guanacaste, but there are also some excellent spots in the Central Pacific and
Southern Zones. And the few breaks that are available in the Caribbean province
of Limon are certainly nothing to complain about.
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The following is a listing of the country’s best surf spots:
Pacific Guanacaste Potrero Grande: Right point break in Santa Rosa National Park,
only accessible by boat; no camping.
Playa Naranjo: Great beach break by Witch’s Rock, in Santa Rosa National Park,
accessible with four-wheel-drive vehicle or boat; camping permitted.
Playa Grande: Very consistent beach break north of Tamarindo.
Tamarindo: Good beach break, excellent base for surfing nearby beaches.
Playa Langosta: River mouth break south of Tamarindo.
Avellanas: Very good beach break further to the south.
Playa Negra: Right point break further to the south.
Nosara: Several beach breaks near selection of accommodations.
Central Boca Barranca: Long river mouth left just south of Puntarenas.
Tivives: Beach breaks and river-mouth left, south of Puntarenas.
Jaco: Popular beach break with abundance of hotels and restaurants.
Hermosa: Several very consistent beach breaks south of Jaco.
Manuel Antonio: Beach breaks near plentiful accommodations.
Dominical: Great beach breaks near hotels and restaurants.
Matapalo: Right point break at tip of Osa Peninsula.
Pavones: Very long left at mouth of Golfo Dulce.
Carribean Playa Bonita: Left over reef off popular beach just north of Limon
City.
Cahuita: Beach break on Black Beach, near hotels and restaurants.
Puerto Viejo: Fast right over coral reef, plenty of hotels and restaurants.
Cocles: Beach break just south of Puerto Viejo.
Manzanillo: Beach break, only when big, some accommodations nearby.
Costa Rica Activities
Costa Rica’s national parks offer a huge variety of hiking – the following are just two of the highlights. The Parque Nacional Rincon de la Vieja, northeast of Liberia in northwestern Costa Rica, is a volcanic wonderland
of cones, craters, lagoons, boiling mud pools and sulphur springs. The park can
be explored on foot or horseback, and visitors can bathe in the hot springs. There
are long-distance hiking trails in the Parque Nacional Corcovado, which is in
the southwestern corner of the Peninsula de Osa in the south of the country. The
trails offer visitors the chance to spend several days walking through lowland
tropical rain forest. Make sure you visit in the dry season, and keep your eyes
peeled for wildlife. There are shorter walks around Monteverde and in the coastal
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, south of Quepos.
Bird watchers should head to the rain forests at La Selva (in the central north) and to the
Parque Nacional Tapanti; (southeast of Cartago), Parque Nacional Palo Verde (at
the head of the Golfo de Nicoya), Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Campo Negro
(east of Upala) and the area around Tortuguero. Turtle watchers should visit Parque
Nacional Tortuguero, where they can visit nesting sites and watch the turtles
lay their eggs. There are also turtles at Parque Nacional Santa Rosa. Different species of turtle lay their eggs at different times of the year; check your biology textbooks for details.
Pavones on the Pacific Coast reportedly has some of the best surfing in Central
America. There is also good surfing at Playa Naranjo in northwestern Costa Rica
and at Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean coast. Windsurfers should check out the artificial Laguna de Arenal, near the spectacular volcano. There are snorkeling and diving possibilities
at the Reserva Biologica Isla del Cano, 20km (12mi) west of Bahia Drake, off the
northern part of the Peninsula de Nicoya and in the Parque Nacional Isla del Coco
– an isolated island 500km (310mi) southwest of Costa Rica in the eastern Pacific.
Golfito is a center for deep-sea fishing, and there are plenty of opportunities to charter boats for several days or
more. Parsimina, a small village at the mouth of the R+ÿo Parsimina, 50km (31mi)
northwest of Limon, has several excellent fishing lodges and good offshore reef
fishing.
Rio Reventazon, in central Costa Rica, is one of the most exciting and scenic
rivers in Costa Rica and a favorite with river rafters and kayakers. The river is navigable year-round, but June and July are the best months. Rio
Pacure, the next major river valley east, is perhaps even more scenic and offers
the best white-water rafting in the country through spectacular canyons clothed
in virgin rain forest. Turrialba is the best base for these excursions.
Costa Rica Environment
Costa Rica is bordered to the north by Nicaragua and to the east by Panama. It
has both a Caribbean and a Pacific coast. A series of volcanic mountain chains
runs from the Nicaraguan border in the northwest to the Panamanian border in the
southeast, splitting the country in two. In the center of these ranges is a high-altitude
plain, with coastal lowlands on either side. Over half the population lives on
this plain, which has fertile volcanic soils. The Caribbean coast is 212km (131mi)
long and is characterized by mangroves, swamps and sandy beaches. The Pacific
coast is much more rugged and rocky, and, thanks to a number of gulfs and peninsulas,
is a tortuous 1016km (630mi) long.
The country’s biodiversity attracts nature lovers from all over the world. The
primary attraction for many visitors is the 850 recorded bird species, which include
the resplendent quetzal, indigo-capped hummingbirds, macaws and toucans. Costa
Rica’s tropical forests have over 1400 tree species and provide a variety of habitats
for the country’s fauna including four types of monkey, sloths, armadillos, jaguars
and tapirs. There are also a number of dazzling butterflies. National parks cover
almost 12% of the country, and forest reserves and Indian reservations boost the
protected land area to 27%.
Costa Rica is a tropical country and experiences only two seasons: wet and dry.
The dry season is generally between late December and April, and the wet season
lasts the rest of the year. The Caribbean coast tends to be wet all year. Temperatures
vary little between seasons; the main influence on temperature is altitude. San
Jose at 1150m (3772ft) has a climate that the locals refer to as ‘eternal Spring’:
lows average 15¯C (60¯F); highs average 26¯C (79¯F). The coasts are much hotter,
with the Caribbean averaging 21¯C (70¯F) at night and over 30¯C (86¯F) during
the day; the Pacific is a few degrees warmer still.
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