Costa Rica in a Nutshell

To most Americans, even those who have never been there, Costa Rica is their favorite tropical destination. But although everyone wants to visit it, hardly anyone has any notion of what exactly you do once you arrive. That’s what this column hopes to correct.

You fly into the capital city of San Jose (home of the area’s only international airport) and stay overnight. It’s then that you make a choice among four longer-stay locations that are basically made up of either superb beaches or else various highlights of mountain tourism.

Monteverde, the “Green Mountain,” is the first of the renowned ecotourism locations. At once remote and connected (a four-hour drive northwest from San Jose), it’s best known for its “cloud forest” reserve, a primordial jungle whose misty humidity makes it amazingly fecund and otherworldly; you’ll need a guide to really spot wildlife, such as howler monkeys, sloths and especially the legendary blue-and-green quetzal bird (admission plus guide is $28 per person).

Other attractions include an insect museum, serpentarium, huge butterfly enclosure, hummingbird feeding grounds, suspended bridges that let you stroll above the treetops and an adrenaline-pumping canopy tour ($30-$40) that zips you down steel cables above and through the mighty forests. Scattered about are more than 60 hotels, all with 100 rooms or less and rarely costing more than $70 or $80 for a standard double.

The Arenal Volcano, next in preference, is a bit more accessible from San Jose than is Monteverde. Its main lure is the nighttime shows put on by the majestic high-altitude cauldron – one of the world’s most active – as it spectacularly sputters glowing lava on a semiregular basis. All the volcanic activity has given rise to elaborately landscaped hot springs and baths. And there’s the usual panoply of horseback riding, caving, canopy tours and trams, with the added twists of windsurfing, rafting and boating on expansive Lake Arenal. In the town down the hill, La Fortuna, are several blocks of inexpensive lodgings where presentable rooms can go for a little as $35 for a double.

Manuel Antonio is another treat. It’s Costa Rica’s original Pacific Ocean beach town, and while the coast farther north, in Guanacaste, has become better known and increasingly colonized by condos and big resorts, I prefer (as do the residents of Costa Rica) this popular getaway, which is a three-hour drive from San Jose. It boasts a national park with powdery sands, lovely islets and lots of wildlife; resorts that are intimate rather than overbearing; and a spectacular setting amid lushly forested hills. The surrounding area also offers plenty of aventuras, from rafting to canopy tours. Best of the budget accommodations are in the neighboring town of Quepos, with lots of offerings and bus service to Manuel Antonio.

And finally, the beaches at Limon — on Costa Rica’s Gulf of Mexico coast — don’t get nearly the attention the Pacific side does. Yet down here you’ll find beautiful, unspoiled sands; breathtaking ecotourism opportunities such as excursions to see giant sea turtles lay their eggs in the sand; funky little beach towns and nighttime cafes; and above all, the fascinating mosaic of Latin, Afro-Caribbean and Indian cultures. The main town is the very laid-back Puerto Viejo, a 3-1/2-hour drive from San Jose, where lodgings tend to be cheaper (and simpler) than at other tourism centers in the country.

Even with all the tourists heading to the four locations I’ve chosen, you can still roam this tiny country and find yourself in another world, whether in a seaside fishing village or a primordial rainforest.

Published Sunday, August 6, 2006 in the Ledger.com

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Written by Arthur Frommer who is a travel guide, author and columnist.

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Andrew Makarik

to@welovecostarica.com

Andrew Makarik is the main editor of WeLoveCostaRica, a fan of this sunny country. He is also a loving husband and a has a lovely daughter. By being a devoted family man and the biggest Costa Rica fan, he wants to make more people feel at home there. WeLoveCostaRica unites people and helps them find new home or a new travel destination. This website is a friendly community where everyone can find not only information, but also new friends and travel pals. Andrew is also passionate about IT and programming, so he himself maintains a friendly atmosphere in this cozy environment of WeLoveCostaRica.com.