Home › Forums › Costa Rica Living Forum › Why not tell the truth about what life is like in Costa Rica?
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May 9, 2014 at 12:00 am #202198mamayannisMember
Okay. So I’ve lived in the Southern Zone now for 17 months. I’ve learned enough of the language to get along. I have a lovely home and have made many friends. I’ve opened my bank account with relative ease and I’m expecting my Cedula at any time now, BUT…………………
What about the inconvenience of living in this country. If you live around San Jose (where I’ve spent many, many weeks of the 17 month trying to find what cannot even be found there) it’s not much different than living in the US. So why bother?
However, if you want to live in the Real Costa Rica, among the native peoples, in the jungle areas, you can do so only if you wish to live like a native. Otherwise, the cost of living in Costa Rica is far greater than what it was in the US.
Even if you own your own home outright, the only reason it appears less expensive is there is no place for the average American to “consume” the goods we so frequently purchase in the US… so you get used to doing without…no great hardship. You even come to realize the stupidity of your previous wasted spending.
However, if you’re dying of the heat in 90 degree 90% humidity and you keep your AC on… if you like to dry your laundry in a dryer rather than on the line… if you prefer a dishwasher to washing dishes by hand constantly,..
if you can’t afford a 4-wheel-drive “non” gas guzzler… and if you wish to eat an occasional imported food or a tender piece of beef rather than casados … the cost of living is astronomical!My electric bills run $350 a month for a 1200 square foot house (2 people); my trips to PriceSmart in San Jose for grocieries (4 hours away) cost about $400 plus $150 in gas and a night at a hotel; cable TV and internet is the same as the US; Clothing in San Jose is untouchable; home goods at EPA are twice the price of Home Depot of Lowe’s; and going out to anything but the beach or a national park is an overnight trip!
So, even without the ancillary spending on eating out, movies, buying whatever you see, etc. I find the cost of living here around $3000 per month for a couple. And, of course, that includes auto insurance (which everyone says isn’t necessary). If you do have an accident, and your auto is in a corporation, and the corporation doesn’t have the assets to cover your costs (the value of your car) they come after the driver personally. So you can lose items in other corporations, such as your home, and your bank accounts, etc.
Now for the ticos and tico time. They have great family values – much better than in the US. But they are not always honest when they tell you what you want to hear to make you happy. I have been burned by two builders and a friend has had one walk away with her home half built because she refused to pay him $25,000 beyond their contract. He just left!!! No kitchen, no baths, no finished electric!
By the way, did anyone ever mention the mold? It’s this wierd white stuff that grows on everything and looks like long fuzz if you don’t clean it. And if you do, it just grows back again. So, what to do? Keep your humidifiers running? Keep your AC running? No, wait! What about the electric bill. Okay then, let’s just throw out all our books, our organic materials, all paper, all cotton, and clean and clean and clean. No one said this was polyester world!
Tico time! Easy to get used to. But a little harder when you discover that a 1 PM appointment means ANY TIME before 2 PM. So you wait in your car with your AC running for 50 minutes and when the tico arrives they don’t think anything is wrong. They’re happy.
You make an appointment for a repairman to come to your house on Monday at 8. He calls at 4 to say he won’t be able to come until Thursday. Then he comes in, checks what you have, and pleasantly tells you he can’t get the parts for two weeks! That’s real tico time. Not that things take longer than expected, but that it’s ridiculous and rude.
And how many of you know marriages that have broken up between American couples because of young ticas. They’re gold diggers to the nth degree. And do we know that this country gives women the benefit of the doubt and the American man usually loses everything he has to her? Even if they’re not married?
So far, we’re here to stay. But boy have we gotten some surprises! And boy do we wish we had been told some of these things before we decided to come.
There’s so much more. Let’s hear your stories!
May 9, 2014 at 9:59 am #202199spriteMemberI have read about all of these things here on this web site. On my first visit to CR, I quickly decided to buy property in the mountains of the Central Valley after spending a week at lower altitudes of the Pacific coast and around Arenal. I knew what heat and humidity are after 32 years in Miami.
I will state the obvious; Your chosen environment will never adapt itself to you. You have to adapt yourself to it so analyze carefully.May 9, 2014 at 10:47 am #202200spriteMemberI would love to see the grocery list. I don’t spend more than $2000 per month on food in Miami for three people…and we eat out often.How one can spend three grand on monthly groceries for a few people in CR is beyond my imagination.
May 9, 2014 at 10:20 pm #202201VictoriaLSTMemberIt all comes down to choices. If you are unhappy with the choices you made, are still making, you need to make a change.
May 10, 2014 at 1:58 pm #202202lyncotaParticipantThis post brings 3 things to mind:
1. Do your homework
2. If you plan to live in CR like you did in the States, it will cost you
3. You know that mold you have in your house? Hire a nice local lady to clean it at a generous wage. She is struggling to support her family on a lot less than $3,000/month.Eventually, you will find local workers you can trust to do contractor work for you. It takes time. Just like in the States. .
May 10, 2014 at 2:11 pm #202203ImxploringParticipant[quote=”lyncota”]This post brings 3 things to mind:
1. Do your homework
2. If you plan to live in CR like you did in the States, it will cost you
3. You know that mold you have in your house? Hire a nice local lady to clean it at a generous wage. She is struggling to support her family on a lot less than $3,000/month.Eventually, you will find local workers you can trust to do contractor work for you. It takes time. Just like in the States. .[/quote]
Great post and so true!
May 10, 2014 at 4:02 pm #202204costaricafincaParticipantMamayannis, at this point in the game, unless you have decided to purchase a home, you are ‘free’ to move to another area of Costa Rica, where you[i] may[/i] live for less.
Once you have received your [i]cedula[/i] you could find out that your CAJA payment is much more than you hoped for…:roll: so your budget, must increase again
This is why forum members, frequently, advise new arrivals, to try out an area [b]before[/b] making a long term commitment.
While vacationing for a short time period, many ‘inconveniences’ are deemed ‘acceptable’ although for the long term, it is a totally different matter.Where you wrote [i]”… we wish we had been told some of these things before we decided to come”[/i] I’m [u]sure[/u] we did, but I expect you didn’t think it would apply to you.8)
May 10, 2014 at 11:08 pm #202205pdsnicklesParticipantNo offense, but this is what happens when people move to an area without doing their due diligence – which includes renting in the area a while before buying or building or even “moving” there for that matter.
Mold? Anyone knows that mold grows in the hot humid lowlands of Costa Rica, particularly near the beach.
Workers not showing up on time or not being reliable? It’s probably one of the #1 things you hear over and over again in these forums. Is it easy to accept? No, but you have to expect it and deal with it.
Cost of electricity for a.c.? Another reason not to live in a hot humid area without good breezes; or maybe a house can be built with lots of windows to get fresh air, maybe better ventilation up top? Certainly this aspect of living in a hot humid area has to be taken into account. OR choose to live in the mountains like around San Ramon where by choosing your altitude you can have it downright COOL even cold at night! Humidity! Here’s a clue: It’s pretty much [i]everywhere [/i]in Costa Rica!
Yeah you do have to learn to eat local food because importing food is going to be expensive. And yeah, local food is a lot cheaper and by and large healthier if you choose carefully.
Going to San Jose from the Souther Zone for [i]groceries[/i]?! Yes surely you need to make some changes in your diet!
I lived in Montezuma once and yeah once in a while I had a hankering for some food I couldn’t get there. I made a trip to San Jose for a couple days to get my specialty food (which i clearly could live without), and then I enjoyed myself in San Jose for a couple days, people watching, walking around, eating at different places… I enjoyed my occasional trips to San Jose. (But note that I did not buy property in Montezuma for some of the reasons you mention; I bought in San Ramon – in the mountains!)
May 11, 2014 at 2:39 pm #202206PeteBParticipantOn November 30th, we will have lived here 7 years and have gone through many of the things mentioned. You really owe it to yourself to listen and learn from many of the comments made on this subject. They are correct in what they have stated.
One thing you stated is the $350 monthly cost for electric? Ours runs about the same, but we have a 3,600 sq ft home, a two unit apartment building and a pool with a pump that runs 4 hrs a night – The only thing I can think of is that you are running your AC 24/7?
A couple of other costs that need to be taken into consideration are:
1) PROPERTY TAXES – We were paying $6,000 per year for a home worth 1/2 as much as we have here – Current cost is $800 per year.
2) MEDICAL/DENTAL CARE – At least 1/2 as much as the US – the same with insurance – In addition, Costa Rica was recently chosen as #4 in the world for health care. And, because of the cost and high quality standards here, dental tourism is Costa Rica’s second largest industry.
3) CHANGING HABITS – When we first moved here, my wife would go to Price Smart and Auto Mercado on a regular basis. The cost for this would blow my mind. I said to her “can you please start thinking like a Tica on what to buy?” She did that and the cost was cut in half. We also found that we could buy a bottle of my favorite beverage anywhere in the town we live for at least $6 a bottle cheaper than Price Smart.These are only a few things of many to consider in making the adjustment to living here and enjoying it more.
Again, please take into consideration what these members are suggesting. Best of luck to you.
May 11, 2014 at 3:16 pm #202207costaricafincaParticipantArticle this morning regarding property tax, on [url=http://www.qcostarica.com/2014/05/11/tourism-drives-property-values-up/]qcostarica.[/url]
May 11, 2014 at 3:19 pm #202208daviddMemberI live in the mountains of heredia
at night hovers around 60-65 and during day never above 80
so for me this is as close as one can find to very confortable weather
my electric bill used to run about 60 bucks per month then I installed solar panels and a nice windturbine
why?? just to be independent from relying on the larger providers.
now my bill hovers about $20 bucks per month
I have a well that I built.. and this I also power via solar
so no water bill
I dont pay for cable tv because I don’t watch TV I get my news from the internet
what I do pay for is a dedicated POINT to POINT internet connection which is asymmetrical 6 megs down and 6 megs up
the equivalent to a residential 12 megs down
costs $180 per month.
this is my dedicated connection and works very well
this is what I use to manage my online empire
I have a project next year to build a aquaponics system
my taxes yearly are $600 for a 2 acre private compound which I pay $450 for the house.. all cash
and my healthcare cost $40 per month for family caja which I have 3 kids and my wife plus an additional policy of private costs $150 per month extra.
been here now for over 10 years and love local foods.. do not miss the states whatsoever..
life is great!!!
overall I live comfortable on $2000 per month and I am raising 3 kids and my wife.
many times I will spend much more but on misc non essential items.. and this is because I can
I generate well into 6 figures.. but I use the $2000 as a baseline in the event everything evaporated.
where can you hide money if you have money??? I would stay away from Banks all together except for transition
I own with my most recent acquisition 46 small lots.. 300 meters to 1000 meters in various locations..
very safe.. its called land Banking.. small and cheap enough to liquidate one at a time
oh.. also a good investment is small mausoleums in cemetery.. great place to stash valuables.. as you go visit past loved ones 🙂
[quote=”PeteB”]On November 30th, we will have lived here 7 years and have gone through many of the things mentioned. You really owe it to yourself to listen and learn from many of the comments made on this subject. They are correct in what they have stated.
One thing you stated is the $350 monthly cost for electric? Ours runs about the same, but we have a 3,600 sq ft home, a two unit apartment building and a pool with a pump that runs 4 hrs a night – The only thing I can think of is that you are running your AC 24/7?
A couple of other costs that need to be taken into consideration are:
1) PROPERTY TAXES – We were paying $6,000 per year for a home worth 1/2 as much as we have here – Current cost is $800 per year.
2) MEDICAL/DENTAL CARE – At least 1/2 as much as the US – the same with insurance – In addition, Costa Rica was recently chosen as #4 in the world for health care. And, because of the cost and high quality standards here, dental tourism is Costa Rica’s second largest industry.
3) CHANGING HABITS – When we first moved here, my wife would go to Price Smart and Auto Mercado on a regular basis. The cost for this would blow my mind. I said to her “can you please start thinking like a Tica on what to buy?” She did that and the cost was cut in half. We also found that we could buy a bottle of my favorite beverage anywhere in the town we live for at least $6 a bottle cheaper than Price Smart.These are only a few things of many to consider in making the adjustment to living here and enjoying it more.
Again, please take into consideration what these members are suggesting. Best of luck to you.[/quote]
May 14, 2014 at 6:32 am #202209mamayannisMember[quote=”sprite”]I would love to see the grocery list. I don’t spend more than $2000 per month on food in Miami for three people…and we eat out often.How one can spend three grand on monthly groceries for a few people in CR is beyond my imagination.[/quote]
Sprite, I don’t spend $2000 per month on food. It’s more like $450. Car ins. is $90. HO Ins is $20. Maid is $90. Gardener is $135. Electric averages $300. Community maintenance is $150. Cable and internet are $80. Mortgage is $500. Gasoline is $250. Car repairs average $40. Pharmacy without the Cedula is about $300 (my hubby has Parkinsons). Eating out is $100 (that’s once a month at a fine restaurant). Haircuts and other personal items run about $60. Home repairs have averaged $350 (roof insulation, termite treatment, new washer). That’s over $2,600 and doesn’t include an occasional weekend trip or clothing or Doc and Dental bills. We’re in our late 60’s. Just wait you guys and see how it seems to get more expensive as you get older.
I hate the states, but even with the cost of medical being more than twice what it is here – when your on SS it’s much more in CR than doc and Rx copays on Medicare.
We are up at 2000 feet, but we did move to an area we should have come to at 30- not at 68. And we did read to rent before buying, but we were charmed and we’re stuck!
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions. It’s just difficult for me to believe that no one seems to agree with anything I’ve said.
May 14, 2014 at 10:56 am #202210spriteMemberThanks for the monthly expense list. It looks to be pretty close to what I expected.
2000 feet of altitude is not quite enough to avoid tropical heat. I think 3000 feet and above is enough altitude to avoid the need for air conditioning.
I am sorry you feel stuck. But all things are relative. For positive perspective, be happy you are not in the States. There is a high probability that life in the good old USA may be experiencing a huge, ugly change in the near future. And even without that change, you have fewer options for inexpensive lifestyles in the US. We all know of expats living happily or otherwise in CR on far less than $2000 per month. You CANNOT live on that amount in the US. And soon, many, many people there will be facing this situation. Once you begin reading about riots in Los Angeles, Chicago ands New York, you may be thanking your self for moving to Costa Rica.May 14, 2014 at 1:10 pm #202211costaricafincaParticipantmamayannis I do agree that is costs much more than it used to, to live here, but wonder why at this point in your lives and taking your husbands health into consideration you decided to take on a house & mortgage, such a distance from town and the ‘conveniences’ it offers to many?
We are of similar ages, and live in a lovely, large 4bed/2bath rented home on 1 Hct. in a small gated community with no HO fees, including utilities for less than your mortgage payment, albeit [i]without[/i] a maid or a gardener …:wink: which is good for us as we live on a fraction of your budget.
I really hope that once you are covered by CAJA, the fees will make a difference, and that the local CAJA facility will provide good, ongoing care for your husband.
A friend told me that since they were both ‘hitting 70’ they had decided to put their home up for sale, since they knew it would take some time to sell and they didn’t want to be ‘stuck’, and unfortunately three years later, they are indeed ‘stuck’.We have previously owned homes and property here, and often discuss [i]should we do so again…[/i]
May 18, 2014 at 10:53 pm #202212sunnybluesMember[quote=”sprite”]I would love to see the grocery list. I don’t spend more than $2000 per month on food in Miami for three people…and we eat out often.How one can spend three grand on monthly groceries for a few people in CR is beyond my imagination.[/quote]
He didn’t say they spent 3 grand for groceries. He said the monthly cost of living was that much including insurance.
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